Tirana Took Me by Surprise: A City I Didn’t See Coming
"Albania? Why are you going there? What is there to do in Albania?"
That was my son’s reaction and honestly, the same one I got from a few friends when I mentioned I was heading to Tirana, Albania. Most people’s first impression of Albania is that it’s unsafe, unwelcoming, or simply not Black-traveller friendly. I’ll admit, I once thought the same.
But Albania kept calling. The Albanian Riviera Sarandë, and especially Ksamil (often called “the Maldives of Europe”) kept appearing on my Instagram and YouTube feed. My favourite travel creators raved about its charm, affordability, and the warmth of its people. My curiosity grew.
Having already fallen in love with Montenegro and the stunning Bay of Kotor, I wanted to explore more of the Balkans. This time, I decided to start in the capital. I love a good city break, and with the Riviera a five hour drive away, Tirana felt like the perfect introduction to Albania.
Here’s the thing not much is known about Albania to the average traveller. After decades of isolation under Enver Hoxha’s communist regime (1944–1991), the country began opening up in the 1990s. Since then, Albania has transformed, modernising its cities, welcoming tourism, and showing the world a completely different side of itself.
I was told, “Skip Tirana there’s nothing to see there.” Naturally, that made me even more curious. And I’m so glad I didn’t listen. From its buzzing café culture to colourful neighbourhoods bursting with art and history, Tirana completely flipped my expectations. More than that, it reminded me why travelling with an open mind always leads to the most aligned and unforgettable adventures.
Arrival: The City That Felt Familiar and Brand New
When I first landed in Tirana, it felt like I’d just touched down in Abuja. The wide roads, hazy mountains in the distance, and the mix of new and old buildings all carried a strange familiarity. It also reminded me a little of Podgorica, only bigger, much bigger than I expected.
The ride from Tirana International Airport to the city centre took about twenty minutes. At first, I thought it might be small, maybe even a little quiet. But as my sister and I drove further in, high-rises lit up the skyline, cafés spilled out onto the pavements, and I realised this wasn’t a sleepy capital. Tirana was alive and from the moment we arrived, I felt comfortable, welcomed, and curious.
Mornings Smelled of Coffee and Pastries
Our apartment was tucked in a central but local neighbourhood, and honestly, that choice shaped my whole experience. Every morning, the bakery across the road became our spot.
The smell of warm borek, golden cakes, and sticky baklava greeted us the moment we stepped inside. Locals popped in and out, chatting like old friends as they picked up their morning bread. It felt like stepping right into the heartbeat of the neighbourhood.
And coffee? Albanians take it seriously. With one of the highest numbers of cafés per capita in Europe, Tirana practically runs on caffeine. My sister and I made it our mission to sip our way around the city, from cosy independents to local favourites like Mulliri i Vjetër and Mon Cheri, Albania’s own versions of Starbucks and Costa (only better). Each café had its own personality, its own vibe; you could easily lose hours just people-watching.
One morning, took me by surprise ( in a good way) I noticed a few men sipping tiny glasses beside their coffee. I assumed it was espresso until the lady behind the counter pulled out a jerrycan and poured them raki, at 10 a.m. Of course, I had to try it too. Fiery, unforgettable, and oh so Albanian.
Wandering Without a Plan
What I loved most about Tirana was that it didn’t demand a plan. It’s a walkable city everything in the centre is close enough to explore on foot, and the best way to experience it is to just get out and wander.
That Saturday, my sister and I set off without a map. We walked to Rinia Park, which sits just south of Skanderbeg Square a calm patch in the middle of the city. The park is home to cafés and restaurants, plus the Taiwan Complex (also known as the Taiwan Center), which has a casino, bowling, and a few bars inside. We took the opportunity to slow down for a bit people-watched, had a drink, and let the day drift a little before continuing on.
From there, we made our way towards Skanderbeg Square, the heart of Tirana. You can’t miss it, it’s spacious, always lively, and surrounded by the city’s main landmarks and tourist attractions like the Et’hem Bey Mosque, Opera House, National Museum of History, and Bunk’Art 2. There’s usually something going on, from pop-up fairs to street performances, and of course, we couldn’t help but oblige the classic tourist moment with a photo at the “I ❤️ Tirana” sign.
A short walk away, we spotted Reja — “The Cloud”, a steel-frame art installation by Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto. It’s a subtle, walk-through piece that reflects Tirana’s creative side and adds to the city’s cool, modern feel.
Nearby is the Tirana Pyramid, one of the city’s most talked about landmarks. Climbing to the top has become a bit of a must-do when you’re in Tirana, so, of course, we did just that. By the time we reached the top, out of breath but happy, the view made it all worth it, a mix of old and new Tirana stretching out in every direction, framed by the mountains. Standing up there, it really hit me how this city has taken pieces of its troubled past and turned them into something vibrant and full of life, a true reflection of the new Tirana. Along the sides, you’ll find cafés tucked into the terraces, which feel so true to the city’s café culture we’d already fallen in love with.
And then came one of those only-in-travel moments, the kind you never plan but end up talking about for years. We were on our way back when, out of nowhere, I needed the bathroom. Desperately. With no public toilets in sight, we ducked into Dorgen Bar on Rruga e Barrikadave, thinking we’d just sneak in, use the loo, and leave. But of course, that’s not how it went.
We ordered drinks to be polite, and two hours later, we were still there espresso martinis and Baileys hot chocolate in hand, music playing, laughter bouncing off the walls, conversations flowing with people we’d never met before. The energy, the warmth, the connection, it was one of those evenings that just had a vibe of its own. We arrived as strangers and left like family... and maybe just a little tipsy.
This is what happens when you travel with curiosity and stay open, open to people, to places, to new experiences. That night summed up exactly what Tirana is: unexpected, friendly, and full of life.
A Day in the Clouds: Dajti Express
One of the highlights of our time in Tirana was taking the Dajti Express cable car. I’ll be honest, I felt a mix of excitement and nervousness at first, especially as we climbed higher and higher, gliding over the city and the hills below. It’s one of the longest cable car rides in the Balkans, but the views just kept getting better, and I found myself relaxing with every passing second, simply enjoying the ride to the top.
At the mountain summit, we were met with fresh, crisp air and a completely different pace. There are plenty of activities for families from mini golf and adventure parks for the kids, to horse riding and hiking trails for those who want to stretch their legs. But for me, the real magic was sitting down at Balkon Restaurant, feeling like I was on top of the world.
Dining there felt authentically Albanian. The food was hearty, fresh, and paired perfectly with local wine, all while overlooking sweeping views of Tirana spread out below. It wasn’t just a meal; it was an experience. Sitting there with my family, glass of wine in hand, mountains behind me and the city below, I had one of those quiet moments where you pause and think — this is exactly why I travel.
The Dajti Express wasn’t just a ride. It was a reminder of how Albania blends natural beauty with simple, authentic pleasures. Definitely a must when visiting Tirana.
Why I’ll Return
Tirana surprised me in every possible way. It felt vibrant and stylish yet warm and welcoming. A place where modern cafés sit next to old neighbourhood bakeries, where history and culture are never far from view, and where the energy makes you want to stay a little longer.
For me, it connects perfectly with my philosophy of slow, intentional travel. Tirana isn’t a place you rush through. It’s a city you wander, savour, and let unfold around you.
I know I’ll be back — next time for two weeks or more, to explore the museums, the art galleries, and excursions into the surrounding mountains and coast. Because once Albania gets under your skin, you can’t help but want more.
Thinking of Going?
In the end, Albania wasn’t just safe and welcoming — it was captivating. All the things I worried about never materialised. Instead, I found a city that flipped my expectations upside down and quietly stole my heart.
Tirana surprised me in all the best ways — from its vibrant café culture and mountain views to its warmth and simplicity. If you’ve ever wondered whether it’s worth the trip, let this be your sign to go. You might find, as I did, that Tirana is the city you didn’t see coming — and the one that stays with you long after you’ve left.
